Rifle Rods

The kit was a good solution for a narrow and shallow safe. This is an old safe and the rubber gun barrel holders were dry rotted. I didn't think about how to attach the velcro sheet until after I opened it. The directions say staple it to the bottom of the wood shelf. Well, for a metal safe I purchased spray adhesive. Spray the metal surface and the back of velcro sheet. Wait 30 seconds for it to tack and install. I used 4 welding magnets to the sides with a strip of thin plywood scrap to help hold it, but I don't think I needed it. I so considered flipping the safe upside down to make gravity my friend, bit decided against it. The rods were long enuff for most of my rifles, but for two of them the rod would only be in the barrel about 2 inches. I would also like if the rod kits came in smaller quantities. Like 5. Need to circle back to see if they sell singles that are longer. If not, I may Frankenstein one with a spare rod cut in half and a spacer to make it longer. My safe is 55" as a reference. Bummed my AR and a small 22 won't work with this as is. I would absolutely recommend to a friend with the cautions stated. Probably expanded my 6 long leaning gun safe into 9 or 10 gun capacity. With scopes BTW. Enjoy!

Definitely opens up the space in your safe for long guns. A great way to add more long guns to your safe

I didn't get the cloth with it .

I didn't get the cloth with it .

Rifles do not slip. Great for tight spaces. Suggest using lowest shelf available and the enclosed loop material

Rifles do not slip. Great for tight spaces. Suggest using lowest shelf available and the enclosed loop material

The Rifle Rod accessory is really handy f you have a few more rifles than slots. I purchased the 10-set a few years back and just now made an installation of it.

Removal of the main shelf is simple and allows you easily work on the underside of it on a workbench.

First of all I used printer paper sections and tape to create a template of the underside of the shelf where the rifles sit. You should leave a 1" space at the right-hand ends as that is where two of the shelf clips will sit. You don't HAVE to leave those two spaces open as the Velcro is thin enough to not cause a shelf-tilt; that is just the way I did it.

I did make the template cover "above" the side slots, too, as that might come in handy sometime. If needed, the Velcro will already be in place. (The instructions also recommend placing Velcro above the "slots.") If you do it the way I did, you will be left at the end of the installation with only a few small pieces of Velcro. There will be VERY little waste to toss.

You will have to cut a few smaller pieces to fit various areas here and there; these are the areas that you cannot cover with your large "main" one-piece section of the Velcro.

The only installation tools you will need are a small flat-blade screwdriver and an Office-type "heavy duty" stapler that accepts 1/4" BOSTITCH staples. There are other type of staplers available but that is what I had on hand at home. In order to use the stapler, I removed an "e" clip and a cross-pin. That allowed me to remove the base and use just the top part of the stapler by itself. (My stapler does not open up 180 degrees.) You have to press firmly and carefully on the stapler to get the staples into the wood without "canting" the stapler and having the staples go in crooked or not at all. (You get a feel for it after a dozen staples or so.) You will feel the staples going FIRMLY into the wood panel and they are NEVER EVER going to come out.

The flat-blade screwdriver is for prying out the staples you fail to install properly. They should go in flat and the nice thing is that they will not cut through the Velcro.

When attaching the Velcro I started at the EXACT center of the largest area and worked my way out, placing the staples every three inches in vertical and horizontal rows until the entire Velcro material was stapled. Then I finished up with a "perimeter" of staples around the entire installation so as to not have drooping edges, and to make it all look nice. The instructions recommend placing the staples at three inch intervals and that works out great.

Hope my post here will help if anyone has any doubt as to doing this task.

If I can do it A-N-Y-O-N-E can do it!

The Rifle Rod accessory is really handy f you have a few more rifles than slots. I purchased the 10-set a few years back and just now made an installation of it.

Removal of the main shelf is simple and allows you easily work on the underside of it on a workbench.

First of all I used printer paper sections and tape to create a template of the underside of the shelf where the rifles sit. You should leave a 1" space at the right-hand ends as that is where two of the shelf clips will sit. You don't HAVE to leave those two spaces open as the Velcro is thin enough to not cause a shelf-tilt; that is just the way I did it.

I did make the template cover "above" the side slots, too, as that might come in handy sometime. If needed, the Velcro will already be in place. (The instructions also recommend placing Velcro above the "slots.") If you do it the way I did, you will be left at the end of the installation with only a few small pieces of Velcro. There will be VERY little waste to toss.

You will have to cut a few smaller pieces to fit various areas here and there; these are the areas that you cannot cover with your large "main" one-piece section of the Velcro.

The only installation tools you will need are a small flat-blade screwdriver and an Office-type "heavy duty" stapler that accepts 1/4" BOSTITCH staples. There are other type of staplers available but that is what I had on hand at home. In order to use the stapler, I removed an "e" clip and a cross-pin. That allowed me to remove the base and use just the top part of the stapler by itself. (My stapler does not open up 180 degrees.) You have to press firmly and carefully on the stapler to get the staples into the wood without "canting" the stapler and having the staples go in crooked or not at all. (You get a feel for it after a dozen staples or so.) You will feel the staples going FIRMLY into the wood panel and they are NEVER EVER going to come out.

The flat-blade screwdriver is for prying out the staples you fail to install properly. They should go in flat and the nice thing is that they will not cut through the Velcro.

When attaching the Velcro I started at the EXACT center of the largest area and worked my way out, placing the staples every three inches in vertical and horizontal rows until the entire Velcro material was stapled. Then I finished up with a "perimeter" of staples around the entire installation so as to not have drooping edges, and to make it all look nice. The instructions recommend placing the staples at three inch intervals and that works out great.

Hope my post here will help if anyone has any doubt as to doing this task.

If I can do it A-N-Y-O-N-E can do it!