Best Gear for Waterfowl Hunting

With the growing interest in all types of outdoor activities, including hunting, there’s been an influx of new waterfowl hunters over the past few years. Popular TV shows featuring duck hunters have also helped boost interest in the sport. But take note: Of all the different types of hunting, waterfowl hunting might be the most gear-heavy. While you can go after any of the 42 legal species of US waterfowl equipped solely with your grandpappy’s wood-stocked double-barrel, a flannel shirt, and a pair of jeans, you’ll likely have a lot more success if you budget for the right gear.

We’ll cover waterfowl hunting shotguns in a separate article, since they deserve their own post. Here, we’ll review the other essential waterfowl hunting gear you’ll need and discuss the three main types of waterfowl-specific ammunition and some of our favorite brands. So let’s dive… uh, carefully wade in!

Best waterproof waders and types (pros and cons) for hunting waterfowl

The first and arguably most important bit of specialized gear for waterfowl hunting is a good set of waterproof waders. After all, it’s called waterfowl for a reason, and it’s important (and far more pleasant) to stay warm and dry. There are several wader types and materials to consider, depending on your needs, preferences, hunting area, type of hunting, climate, and budget.

Hip waders or hip boots can be useful for shore hunters who might have to cross puddles or very shallow marshy bits but have little chance of spending any time in water above the thigh. Usually they strap or snap around your belt somewhere, but there are old-style hip waders that are basically super-tall boots that come up to the high thigh area. For people who will spend time splashing through water potentially up to the groin area, we’d definitely opt for something with more coverage. But for stream fishermen or waterfowl hunters who walk shorelines or shallow rivers hoping to jump a flock of ducks or geese, hip waders can be sufficient. However, with hip waders you always have to be a little paranoid about getting into water that’s over the top of your boots/waders, and we don’t like to have to worry about that.

Waist waders look like a pair of pants, usually come with suspenders, and might be appropriate for warmer-weather hunting through shallow marsh or shore areas but without the potential for belly-deep water. In our view, waist waders are usually a superior choice over hip waders since you have significantly more coverage in groin-deep water and we find they are generally more convenient to wear and use. However, in nearly all cases, we find chest waders to be more versatile and superior for waterfowl hunting.

Chest waders look like overalls, coveralls, or bibs (depending on where you grew up), and the best ones are waterproof up to around the armpit area. Traditionally, chest waders have been the most popular choice overall for duck hunters, and they remain so today. For versatility, coverage, comfort, and warmth, chest waders are almost always our recommendation (see below for some favorite models and brands). Be sure to wear a snug wader belt to help prevent them from filling up and dragging you under if you fall into deep water, and of course wear appropriate floatation devices while boating.

Full-body waders are starting to hit the market and are a zippered, one-piece coverall including collar, shoulders, and arms. You can fully submerge yourself and your arms up to your neck/wrists and remain perfectly dry. Expect to pay at least $1,000 for a good set of full-body waders.

Are neoprene or breathable (Gore-Tex) waders better?

In the old days, rubberized cotton or canvas was the typical wader construction, but this material has mostly fallen out of favor as it just doesn’t last very long and is difficult to repair. Today, basic waders are typically made of neoprene, which is a somewhat thick, stretchy polymer material that provides waterproofness, insulation, and a small amount of buoyancy (wetsuits for diving are commonly neoprene). Quality neoprene waders can be pretty durable, if constructed properly (usually at the mid-price point and above), but as you move up the ladder of price and durability, you’ll find primarily what today are called breathable waders. These are typically made of some type of advanced cordura/nylon cloth backed with either genuine brand-name Gore-Tex waterproof breathable lining or one of the alternatives that have come out over the past 20 years.

The advantage of Cordura or other breathable waders are that the cloth is relatively thin and flexible, which makes them comparatively comfortable and easy to flex/move around in. Also, manufacturers can easily sew additional pockets, flaps, D rings, belt loops, knee pads, or other desirable features onto the base wader shape and then use waterproof seam materials and methods to ensure the whole thing stays watertight. Neoprene is harder to work with and easier to tear, so neoprene waders are typically not considered the top-of-the-line, especially at the lower price range. Neoprene also doesn’t breathe at all, so it can get clammy or sweaty inside if you’re exerting yourself or it’s warm out. However, neoprene is far superior in providing material insulation and, as noted, provides some buoyancy.

If your waterfowl hunting finds you partially submerged in frigid temps for hours at a time, neoprene may be the superior choice for you. If you mostly sit in a dry boat or duck blind but wade through water to place or retrieve decoys, or if you have to walk a lot to jump sitting fowl along a coastline or river, the lighter, breathable waders are likely going to be the way to go. If it’s warm or hot where you hunt waterfowl (yes, that can happen), the non-insulated, breathable waders are definitely going to make you happier (again, see below for some of our favorites).

Are bootfoot or stockingfoot waders better for waterfowl hunting?

Stockingfoot waders, as you might expect, end at the bottom with (typically) neoprene, waterproof, stockings that are relatively easy to slide on and off. They are intended to be worn in combination with separate wading boots that look similar to typical hiking boots but are specifically designed for protection and traction while being submerged in slippery, muddy shoreline and marsh conditions. The boots themselves will get filled with water and usually incorporate drain holes. This may seem strange but many people find this combination superior to bootfoot waders, especially in deep, sticky mud, as there is a more secure, tied connection to your feet in this setup, and you will likely not slide up and partially out of a stuck boot and possibly fall face-first into the mud.

Bootfoot waders include a fully incorporated waterproof boot section at the bottom of the leg portion, so you slip into your waders and into the attached boot at the same time. The boots are usually fairly durable and have good traction, but they are necessarily more loose to your foot than separate, lace-up wading boots, so your feet will move around a bit more and you may find yourself partially lifting your feet out of them as you walk through super-deep mud, which can be a hassle.

Most waders intended for waterfowl hunters are bootfoot style, but if you’re set on stockingfoot waders, they are available, particularly when oriented more toward fishing. So if you don’t find what you want in the hunting section of your outdoor retailer or online store, check the fishing department and see if they have stockingfoot waders in a color that won’t spook the ducks away. If you go with bootfoot waders and hunt in colder temps, be sure to try them on while wearing your cold-weather socks and underlayers so the boots aren’t so tight they cut off the circulation (which leads to frigid feet).

Should I choose insulated or uninsulated waders for duck hunting?

Waterfowl hunting typically happens in the coldest months of the year, so in northern or mountainous/western parts of the USA where winter weather is actually a thing, insulated waders are usually the ticket. However, in deep southern or coastal areas, hunters may choose non-insulated waders for both versatility (you can always add warm layers beneath) as well as comfort (insulation can add bulk and restrict movement compared to non-insulated waders.

It’s a preference thing, but where we live in the Mountain West, we’d favor insulated waders and/or be sure to wear quality underlayers beneath. Being cold is not only miserable, it can be dangerous.

So let’s get to some of our favorite recommendations for waders.

Best neoprene budget/occasional-use waders: Cabela’s Classic Series II

Again, for a hunter going out into the field multiple times a year, we’d recommend something better, but for the price these are hard to beat. We’d recommend coloring in the bright gold Cabela’s logo on the front with a brown or black magic marker, though.

Best overall value chest waders: Frogg Toggs Grand Refuge 3.0 bootfoot wader

MSRP for the non-zip-front Grand Refuge chest waders runs up to $449, but Amazon typically has at least one camo pattern in non-gigantic sizes starting at around $270. The zip-front model of Grand Refuge chest waders are indeed easier to get into and out of, but at the $699 MSRP for those, we’ll stick with the cheaper option and deal with a little bit more hassle wiggling in and out of them.

If you’re quick enough, Frogg Toggs has discontinued their Realtree Timber camo pattern and are currently selling for just $199 in most sizes. That’s a screaming deal for some very capable chest waders, especially considering the price.

Best non-insulated, breathable chest waders: Sitka Delta Zip chest waders

Features include:

• GORE™ OPTIFADE™ Concealment Waterfowl Timber is optimized for engagement distances of 10 to 40 yards in the darker environments of flooded timber
• Insulated Boots: Lightweight, durable, and comfortable insulated boots add warmth and agility when trudging through the muck and are attached to the wader with advanced heat-activated technology to create a strong and streamlined weld joint
• Waterproof YKK AQUASEAL® Zipper: A durable and completely waterproof zipper allows for an easy on and off
• Reinforced Knee and Shin Pads: The shins and knees are reinforced with a rugged foam pad to endure years of abuse breaking ice and busting through the brush
• Adjustable No-Buckle Suspension: A streamlined suspension system eliminates cumbersome buckles and makes custom fitting lightweight and easy to use
• Water-Resistant Zippered Storage Pockets: Two zippered storage pockets provide easy access to store essentials
• High Handwarmer Pockets: High handwarmer pockets are positioned to shed water away from the pocket and provide easy access to keep hands warm and ready

If you’ve suffered through several seasons with inferior waders, you may want to treat yourself to a set of Sitkas.

Video: Sitka Delta Zip Wader Review. 4 year follow up

Best floating shotgun cases for waterfowl hunting

When you’re transporting your shotgun from vehicle to boat to blind and back, there are lots of opportunities for it to fall into the drink. A floating (and ideally waterproof) shotgun case can save you a lot of trouble and money. Here are some of our favorite options.

Best on a budget: Cabela’s Northern Flight Deluxe floating gun case

For under $30 MSRP it’s hard to fault Cabela’s Northern Flight Deluxe floating gun case. It’s not waterproof, but your waterfowl shotgun should be able to handle some H2O anyway. The case looks like a typical soft long gun case but has an additional foam panel along the middle that both adds flotation and some extra padding to protect from dings and scrapes.

Even if you don’t hunt waterfowl, it’s a good general-use rifle or shotgun case for the money.

Dive Bomb Dry Gauge: the best waterproof shotgun case for the money

Image Courtesy of Dive Bomb Industries

Dive Bomb Industries makes all kinds of great gear for waterfowl hunting (including decoys, which we’ll touch on below). Their $99 Dry Gauge floating waterproof shotgun case has everything you need and nothing you don’t. We love the included clear card pocket for owner ID (we’ve had hunting party members lose shotguns in the field before). We also love the interior velcro pocket for a silica desiccant pack to help keep the inside from getting musty or mildewy. We love the extra-long 60.5” length for super-long goose guns. And we love the three basic waterfowl-friendly color options (green, tan, and brown) so we don’t have to pay extra for trademarked camo patterns.

Other features:

• Floating, 100% waterproof design to keep your shotgun clean, dry, and protected
• RF-welded seams and bar-tacked stress points for long-term performance
• Mil-Spec webbing and quality Duraflex® hardware
• Roll-top design with side-release buckles and over-top cinch-strap secure a tight closure
• Reinforced barrel end to prevent choke tubes from wearing through
• 6 molle-loops for clipping items and lashing down
• Exterior, water-resistant, zippered utility pocket
• Padded, adjustable, and detachable shoulder strap

Watershed Wetland Shotgun Case: top-notch dry bag with purge valve

Watershed is known for making all types of quality dry bags for camping, hunting, and boating. Their Wetland waterproof shotgun case accommodates long guns up to 52” in overall length, and keeps them bone dry in a rolled/buckled enclosure. A handy padded strap and integral carrying handle are included.

The Wetland case retails for between $179-$257 depending on choice of camo pattern and optional inflate/purge valve to really add buoyancy (and protection). We’d opt for the purge valve but would go with the Smoke Green color rather than the trademarked (but attractive) MultiCam which carries a $50+ upcharge. Blaze orange is easier to find if your gun falls out of a moving duck boat, but be sure to hide it well once you get to your blind.

Pelican 1750 Protector long gun case: buy once, cry once

If you are the type of hunter that uses a $2,500 Italian shotgun and designer chest waders, the Pelican 1750 Protector is likely the choice for you. Pelican cases have a fantastic reputation for bombproof durability, usability, and quality for transporting all types of valuable items, from cameras and electronic gear to laptops/computers to musical instruments to firearms and bows.

You may be interested to learn that Pelican cases aren’t airtight, and are specifically designed not to be. A truly airtight case can cause vacuum lock when changing elevations. So Pelican cases are watertight (which is the relevant point, particularly when slogging through the duck marshes) and are equipped with a waterproof auto-pressure valve to equalize air pressure within and outside of the case. Pelican cases are equipped with watertight silicone O-rings around the lid and are waterproof to at least 1 meter for 30 minutes submersion. Will it float? Well, it depends on how much stuff you pack inside, but in our experience, a 1750 will easily float with one shotgun inside. Pack it full of heavy boxes of shells and you might find the limit of the case’s buoyancy, but we haven’t found it yet.

Many Pelican cases are quite expensive, (up to $700 for their wine carrier or $1,244 for their huge 0550 vault case, for example) but our favorite choice for the waterfowl hunter is the basic 1750 Protector with a reasonable MSRP of $344.95. Now, if you use a $150 beater shotgun for your waterfowl hunting, you probably aren’t going to want to spend upwards of $350 for a waterproof shotgun case. But if you’ve spent quite a bit of money for a quality waterfowl shotgun, investing in a Pelican case to keep it free from dings and off the bottom of the marsh is definitely worth it.

And if you have to fly with your firearm, the lockable, durable, TSA-approved Pelican case is a no-brainer.

Best shotgun shells for duck and goose hunting

Waterfowl hunting ammo has some particular requirements and deserves its own section. You can’t use standard lead-shot bird-hunting shotshells on waterfowl. Since the 1991 nationwide ban on lead shot for hunting waterfowl, hunters and shotshell manufacturers have had to scramble to find non-toxic shot substitutes that could still produce ethical kills on waterfowl at reasonable ranges. Early steel shotshells produced either poor patterns or poor penetration on birds, or both. However, over the past 40 years, non-toxic hunting shotgun ammunition has come a long way. Today, there are essentially three main types: steel, bismuth, and tungsten matrix (or some combination thereof).

Since steel is around 30 percent less dense than lead, it’s important to use a larger pellet size than you typically would use in a lead shotshell load, and drive it fast… like 1,500+ feet per second (FPS). This helps overcome steel shot’s shortcomings. Of course, larger pellets take up more room in each shell. Meaning, each cartridge contains fewer pellets, which can lead to holes in your pattern and more missed or crippled birds. This is one reason why modern 3” or even 3.5” magnum 12-gauge hunting loads have become the norm for waterfowl hunting… you can get more pellets in the longer shells, and load them with more powder to push the shot cloud faster.

Bismuth and Tungsten can perform similarly to (or even better than) lead, but you’ll pay a premium for that performance. Here are some recommendations for waterfowl hunting loads.

Federal Speed Shok: budget steel performer

We like Federal ammunition generally and their steel-shot Speed Shok loads have patterned well in most guns we’ve tried. The price is also not too bad by today’s standards, with an MSRP of just over a buck a pop, and you may find it on sale at online ammo sellers or outdoor retailers such as Sportsman’s Warehouse for around $0.85 per shot or sometimes less.

Kent Fasteel is also a well-established, well-liked, and good-performing brand for plated steel shot hunting loads.

Fiocchi Golden Waterfowl Bismuth: semi-premium hammer

Bismuth shotshells are growing in number among non-toxic shotgun hunters. Bismuth shot is commonly made from a bismuth-tin alloy, and though bismuth is less dense than lead, it’s still a lot more dense than common steel shot. Bismuth shot pellets have a density of 9.6 grams per cubic centimeter (g/cc), about halfway between lead (11.2 g/cc) and steel (7.8 g/cc). This means that, all else being equal, bismuth shot has the potential to hit harder, penetrate deeper, and reach out farther than common steel shot.

Another selling point for bismuth shotshells is that they are typically less expensive than tungsten (see below). So, for not much more than premium steel hunting loads, you might find a bismuth shotshell that drops ducks or geese almost as well as the old lead loads.

Be aware that bismuth shot is a little more fragile (as in the individual pellets), and depending on the load and your choke, you may lose a few pellets to breakage. Pattern your gun with your chosen load and choke to look for problems.

As for which bismuth load to try, we’d start with Fiocchi’s Golden Waterfowl Bismuth. Fiocchi has a reputation for providing good-performing hunting loads at reasonable prices, and this load features Fiocchi’s waterproof crimp to keep moisture out. If you find it on sale, it might cost you around $2 per shot. Certainly more than the cheapest steel loads, but the increased effect on birds can be worth it.

Hevi-Shot Tungsten HEVI-XII: the new premium standard

At around $3-$5 per shot or more (some 18 g/cc density tungsten turkey loads are more than 20 bucks a pop!), tungsten is the superior choice for performance on waterfowl… if money is no issue. Pure tungsten is 2.5 denser than steel and around 1.7 times denser than lead but is non-toxic, so today’s hunting requirements permit it in areas where lead shot has been banned. Additionally, tungsten is safe to shoot through any choke that’s safe with lead shot, unlike steel, which can damage older guns or those with overly constrictive chokes.

Another advantage of tungsten matrix (a mix of tungsten powder and polymers) shot is that it can be formulated at different densities. The most common (and least pricey) is mixed to weigh 12 grams per cubic centimeter of shot, but as noted above, 18 g/cc shot is available if you really don’t worry about paying off your American Express Black card bill. If your style of hunting has you taking just a few shots a day, or if you just have a big pile of money laying around (you lucky dog), then the mid-weight tungsten shotshells like Hevi-Shot Hevi-XII might be for you.

Even blended/duplex or stack loads (partly tungsten shot, partly steel) can reach over $6 per shot, depending on the brand and the density of the tungsten. However, if you shop around, you can find loads using 30% Hevi-Shot (tungsten) and 70% steel for about $2 per shot. This can be a good compromise and save you some money.

As with any shotgun cartridge, it’s important to pattern your selected load with your gun and your selected choke/s to see if there is anything you need to be concerned about in either the function of the gun or the location, density, and consistency of the pattern. This is especially important if you’re going to spend upwards of $5 per shot for premium tungsten shells.

Best decoys for waterfowl hunting

Getting the picture yet? Depending on what type of waterfowl you’re going after and where, you might need a truck-full (and maybe an additional literal boat-full) of gear to get it done. Many people enjoy and find success sneaking up on and jump-shooting ducks, but most regular, serious duck, goose, crane, and swan hunters use decoys. There are multiple types of each, and what’s good for one person might be considered pathetically basic or overkill by another. We could dedicate an entire article to this topic. However, we’ll give you a brief overview of a couple types and options offered by one of our favorite brands recently, Dive Bomb Industries.

For field hunting where you’re trying to get ducks to land in a mowed corn field, floating decoys aren’t required. Cheaper decoys are available but unless money is a real issue, the least expensive setup we’d go with is some fully flocked/textured silhouette decoys like those from Dive Bomb, at around $125 per dozen. The standard (non fully flocked) silhouettes are about $70/dozen, but we’d spring for the more realistic light-reflecting characteristics of the fully flocked option here. Rather than decoys that are 3D-shaped like live ducks, these silhouettes are essentially 2-dimensional. However, Dive Bomb’s colors are vibrant, the poses are realistic, and there’s a useful variety of flock characteristics in each dozen. One or two dozen silhouettes randomly oriented in a field or shoreline can look surprisingly realistic, and the weight and bulk of transporting a bunch of decoys is kept to a minimum. Remember you’ll need silhouette decoy stakes as well, or rig something up yourself.

Buying floating decoys that can work for both is the obvious move if you hunt in both fields and marshes. As an example, for hunting mallard ducks, Dive Bomb offers both standard and fully flocked/textured plastic oversized decoys for $175 and $250 per dozen, respectively. We like the oversized profile and the thicker plastic of the Dive Bomb stuff. We also like their very convenient slotted decoy floater bag and stainless decoy rigs/anchors to keep your flock from floating away.

Big Al’s decoys is another well-regarded, full-featured decoy brand and we love their products as well.

Pro tip: check the hunting forums or your local classifieds and you can often get fantastic deals on waterfowl decoys from people who are giving up the sport or moving on to better gear.

Waterproof phone cases and other pouches for waterfowl hunting

Remember that everything you take with you into the marshes, as far as personal items, needs to be secured to your body and/or waterproof (and ideally floatable). If you want to share your duck-hunting success on Instagram, be sure to keep your phone in something like Pelican’s waterproof, floating phone pouch ($25). Magpul’s DAKA waterproof window pouches (starting at $25) are great for all types of smaller items, and anything you want to keep dry. Beware of cheap knockoffs. For more budget-minded hunters, a ziploc freezer bag can make an acceptable substitute for stuff like first-aid items, fire-starting gear, spare socks or gloves, medication, handwarmers, and more. Plastic bags are nowhere near as durable as DAKA pouches, though, so keep that in mind.

Secure your waterfowl hunting guns in a Liberty Safe

After the hunt, be sure to dry and correctly maintain your shotgun, and keep it secure in a US-made gun safe from Liberty when not in use. A properly dehumidified gun safe helps protect your valuables from theft, fire, unauthorized access, and humidity and corrosion damage. And saving money on firearms loss or repairs leaves you more money to buy more waterfowl hunting gear!